Grand
Union canal and River Soar:(Adjacent
canals can be viewed with
the above links)
It might seem a bit odd to include the Grand Union (main line and Leicester section) with the River Soar. However for the purposes of practical potential cruising, be patient with us, and all will be revealed.
It might seem a bit odd to include the Grand Union (main line and Leicester section) with the River Soar. However for the purposes of practical potential cruising, be patient with us, and all will be revealed.
But first a brief description
of the Grand Union canal, now often just referred to as the 'GU'. From
the mid 1800s
the main line Grand Union (albeit only named that as late as 1929)
became the most direct canal route between London and Birmingham - and
even further north via it's Leicester section. The GU main
line had wide beam locks allowing two 7ft wide narrowboats to use the
same lock at once. This meant that working paired boats could be used
more easily - and it was thus a quicker and more practical route north
than
the earlier Oxford canal. In brief, the GU started
at the Thames at Brentford and headed due north through Hemel
Hempstead, Leighton Buzzard, and Milton Keynes. At Braunston it shared
the course of the oxford canal for a while, before heading off north
westwards to Birmingham via Warwick. The later GU (Leicester
Section) branched off from the GU main line south of Braunston, at
Norton, taking us due north through Watford Gap and Foxton to
Leicester. Here it joins with the River Soar taking us
further north to meet with the River Trent and then the
Humber.
Although the GU main line was
historically a very important route south, we generally find our
recommendation goes to other routes than the GU Main Line for those
wanting a canal holiday. The area near to Birmingham is 'very run down'
as is the area north of Brentford. South of the
Norton/Buckby areas there is lock after lock, ever southward.
It makes it harder to just turn around and head back the way we came -
and we have better suggestions for a holiday. Note that we
are differentiating here between the GU Main Line and the GU (Leicester
Section). We may not recommend the GU Main LIne for a holiday
cruise
but we certainly do recommend the GU (Leicester Section) - it
has to be one of the prettiest canals in the UK. So now we
have the reasoning behind including the very attractive River Soar on
this page - as
it forms an effective continuation of the equally attractive
GU (Leicester section).
So my ongoing description of
these waterways is going to cover those parts that we are
likely to be cruising. From the Braunston area of the GU main line,
south to Norton, then northwards from Norton on the GU (Leics section)
to Market Harborough and Leicester where we join the River Soar.
Once on the Soar we continue north through Loughborough and
some charming river sections until we reach the confluence with the
River Trent. From there we would turn upstream on the Trent for the
short distance taken to reach the southern end of the Trent
& Mersey canal (hence the above page link). 

Grand
Union Main Line - Braunston to Norton:
Presuming we have joined the GU from the northern Oxford canal, we first pass through Braunston. Athough only a small village from a land based point of view, it was an important canal junction area from a canal perspective and it is still a thriving canal centre with boat building, chandleries, marina, et al. Some enthusiats (often from the south of the UK) seem to class Braunston as being the 'centre' of the canal system - historically, geographically, and in modern real terms, we believe that distinction to belong further north.
Presuming we have joined the GU from the northern Oxford canal, we first pass through Braunston. Athough only a small village from a land based point of view, it was an important canal junction area from a canal perspective and it is still a thriving canal centre with boat building, chandleries, marina, et al. Some enthusiats (often from the south of the UK) seem to class Braunston as being the 'centre' of the canal system - historically, geographically, and in modern real terms, we believe that distinction to belong further north.
At Braunston, as we travel south, we climb a flight of 6 wide beam
locks. Then through a widebeam tunnel, with the prospect of
meeting
boats travelling north within the tunnel. Presuming we have avoided
queuing at the locks, it's only a matter of a 2.5 hour cruise (quite
pleasant) from Braunston to Norton Junction. Here we turn off
the GU main
line to join the GU (Leics section).
Grand
Union (Leics Section):
We like the Leicester Section. As soon as we turn off the main line, immediately the canalscape is pleasantly rural. For a short while there is some noise pollution from the nearby M1 motorway, which is close but hidden from view by towpath trees, but the noise isn't with us for long. We climb the Watford Locks (as in 'Watford Gap') and lose the noise. It's very much (we are told) the way that the English countryside used to look decades ago. We've personally seen water voles patrolling the reed banks, grass snakes looking for water borne prey. Happily for us it's also relatively quiet in terms of other 'boat movements' - strange for such an attractive, pretty, canal - dragonflies and damselflies abound. And it's like that virtually all the way, for about 30 miles, from Norton Junction to the southern outskirts of Leicester - outstanding if you want a rural meandering canal which seems closer to nature than human habitation.
We like the Leicester Section. As soon as we turn off the main line, immediately the canalscape is pleasantly rural. For a short while there is some noise pollution from the nearby M1 motorway, which is close but hidden from view by towpath trees, but the noise isn't with us for long. We climb the Watford Locks (as in 'Watford Gap') and lose the noise. It's very much (we are told) the way that the English countryside used to look decades ago. We've personally seen water voles patrolling the reed banks, grass snakes looking for water borne prey. Happily for us it's also relatively quiet in terms of other 'boat movements' - strange for such an attractive, pretty, canal - dragonflies and damselflies abound. And it's like that virtually all the way, for about 30 miles, from Norton Junction to the southern outskirts of Leicester - outstanding if you want a rural meandering canal which seems closer to nature than human habitation.
Other than just plain 'very
pretty' we have three tunnels between
Norton and Leicester as well as two major lock flights at Watford and
Foxton. Watford has seven locks with four being in
the form of a
staircase (ie where the higher lock chamber empties directly into the
next chamber down). Foxton locks consists of two staircases,
each with five chambers, with interesting side ponds to help save
water.
Adjacent to the locks is the site of an 'inclined plane'. For
about nine years in the early 1900s, boats would be lowered down, and
raised up, the slope in counter balanced water filled tanks, moving up
and down on rails. We also have two interesting canal
'arms'. The attractive Welford Arm takes us to Welford
village via a charming little back water and single lock - well worth
the detour. The 'Harborough Arm' is a bigger affair taking us
approx 5 miles to an attractive basin at Market Harborough. The
Harborough Arm originally formed part of an intended canal
route from Leicester to Northampton, but which was never finished.
North of Foxton the GU (Leics section) becomes a canal seemingly hidden
away, meandering as if it has already joined the River Soar -
very pretty with a real chance of seeing water voles. The
locks now are wide beam as we descend into Leicester where we
join the River Soar.
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| Turning off the GU main line onto the Leics section at Norton Junction. | Bottom of Watford Locks. | Pleasant setting with lock keeper's bothy at the top of Watford Locks. | Crick Wharf. |
River Soar:
At Leicester, heading north, the GU (Leics section) meets the Soar, firstly just for short periods - then with the river gaining greater prominence. There are those who fear Leicester for it's vandals. Like any city the vandals are bound to be there - but we've never seen them. For me the passage through Leicester is actually pleasant, with the 'mile straight' overlooked by pleasant enough buildings - An appropriate amount of redevelopment seems to have happened over the years to make it now an attractive cruise through the city.
At Leicester, heading north, the GU (Leics section) meets the Soar, firstly just for short periods - then with the river gaining greater prominence. There are those who fear Leicester for it's vandals. Like any city the vandals are bound to be there - but we've never seen them. For me the passage through Leicester is actually pleasant, with the 'mile straight' overlooked by pleasant enough buildings - An appropriate amount of redevelopment seems to have happened over the years to make it now an attractive cruise through the city.
North of the city the
navigation passes through an area of disused industrial gravel pits -
sounds unattractive but the opposite is the case. The pits
have been flooded and attractively transformed into Watermead Country
Park, complete with countryside rangers to help keep the park
a
real asset for the people of Leicester - and an attractive
overnight mooring for we hotelboaters.
Continuing
northwards and
down stream on the Soar we pass along very attractive stretches of
river, meandering backwards and forwards, with an occasional lock or
watermill - beautiful. We are with the river for approx two
days from Leicester to the Soar's confluence with the River Trent -
it's a charming trip - but probably best described with
photos.....
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| Two typical views of the Soar - pleasant cruising. | Two views of the approach to Normanton-on-Soar - the river now wider with the Trent only a few miles to the north. | ||
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