Trent
& Mersey Canal:(Adjacent
canals can be viewed with
the above links)
The Trent & Mersey (or 'T&M' for short) is probably my favourite canal. Pretty in it’s northern stretches - pretty in it’s southern stretches - less so around Stoke in the middle, but always full of interest. From it’s southern end, it emerges from and then travels alongside the River Trent. In fact we include here a description of the River Trent from it's confluence with the River Soar westwards for a short distance to where we join the starting point of the T&M at Derwent Mouth Lock. It's also why we include a link on this page to our page which deals with cruising the River Soar.
The Trent & Mersey (or 'T&M' for short) is probably my favourite canal. Pretty in it’s northern stretches - pretty in it’s southern stretches - less so around Stoke in the middle, but always full of interest. From it’s southern end, it emerges from and then travels alongside the River Trent. In fact we include here a description of the River Trent from it's confluence with the River Soar westwards for a short distance to where we join the starting point of the T&M at Derwent Mouth Lock. It's also why we include a link on this page to our page which deals with cruising the River Soar.
The first half mile of our
route from the
Soar upstream on the Trent, to Sawley, is on a very wide section of
river with dramatic views of the the cooling towers of Ratcliffe Power
station on the horizon to the east. The river then seems to
scale
down a bit from Sawley up to Derwent Mouth. From here we join the
T&M albeit still a wide beam canal - almost unwilling to scale
down
any further, too quickly, from it's river start point. For
the first 10
miles
or so we pass through pleasant enough countryside - peaceful until we
get the railway alongside near Willington. But from there we
are
soon into Stretton and Burton with the railway and the A38 never far
away (the A38 is just as noisy as the best of motorways). We
need to pick our overnight mooring locations with care, but happily we
need suffer such modern noise pollution for only a few hours.
Once at Wychnor we climb away from the noise and re-enter
quiet
countryside. In fact between Wychnor and Alrewas we rejoin
the
Trent again for almost a mile - but here it is tranquil, reed lined,
and barely wider than many a canal.
Many
of our cruises start at Fradley Junction, from where we head North and
skirt the eastern side of Cannock Chase from Rugeley through some very
pleasant ‘water meadow’ countryside with the River Trent never far
away. Soon we approach Great Haywood, with Shugborough Hall adjacent.
Great Haywood is only a small village to those living on land, but an
important canal junction town to those of us that live aboard. Here the
Staffs & Worcs canal heads off south westwards to eventually
reach the River Severn and then the Bristol Channel - It was a very
important route in years gone by. North of the ‘Haywoods’ we start a
gradual climb up to Stone, from where the canal enters the ‘potteries’.

Still
south of Stone the canal follows the River Trent, with an attractive
water meadow landscape. At Burston village we can stop and admire the
village itself, with attractive village pond, or cross over a small
bridge over the Trent and visit a nearby wildlife
reserve. Stone itself is a historic canal town. The
hireboat base in Stone is the oldest established such firm still
operating in this country. Their
base occupies a charming
series of, still operational, dry docks (listed buildings) - we would
also recommend their engineering skills. Further on is the
site of the Joules Brewery (now a CNC engineering firm).

The ‘potteries’, home of
Wedgwood and Royal Doulton are sadly not the hive of industry that they
were in years gone by. Only a few of the factories are still in
production
(eg canalside Middleport). But the canal still has interest with the
albeit few remaining bottle kilns and derelict wharves. Sadly much of
this industry, which brought about the birth of our canal system, has
been razed to the ground. But our progress is good because the canal is
deep.
At Etruria the Caldon heads off eastwards, but we progress north
through
Stoke until we reach the Harecastle Tunnel. No matter how often I do the
Harecastle, I always find it interesting.
Huge fans keep the air clean inside. There are doors at the south end
which slam shut behind you. This is to force the fresh air to be drawn
by the fans all the way through the 1.75 miles of the tunnel from the
northern end. In one of the photos further below, see the
hanging
chains to ensure boats will fit through some of the sections with
reduced
headroom.

North of the Harecastle the
water in the canal
is rusty coloured, not by dirt, but because it is, literally, rusty.
It is caused
by underground drainage
water passing through ironstone ore from old mine workings within
Harecastle Hill into the canal through the brickwork
inside the Harecastle
tunnel, I’ve felt water spouts coming into the tunnel through
drains and it’s naturally warm (almost
tepid). A possible sign of some sort of chemical reaction still taking
place in the old mine workings.

Almost
as soon as we emerge from the tunnel, we have the option of heading off
north east on the Macclesfield canal, but we keep heading due north
down
the ‘heartbreak hill’ flight of locks.
The term 'heartbreak is a relatively recent term - traditionally they
were known as the 'Cheshire' locks. We actually find little
difficulty with these locks (much better maintained than those at
Stoke). Almost immediately the
scenery changes from an urban to more attractive rural canalscape. Over
a very few miles we descend several hundred feet down onto the Cheshire
plain. This canal used to be a very important trade route and to speed
things up most of the locks (although narrowbeam) were made in pairs,
to allow boats to pass in opposite directions. We have even been known
to ‘go for an overtake’. After a pleasant lock free stretch
of
canal north of Wheelock (pronounced willock by the old boatmen) we
descend several more locks to Middlewich. Here we could turn west onto
the Middlewich canal linking with the Shroppie (and 'four counties
ring'). Or we can continue north on the T&M, through
very
attractive countryside (full of wildlife - we've spotted Barn owls), to
Anderton where we can take the Anderton Lift down onto the River
Weaver. The T&M continues for about 5 miles
further
north running parallel with the River Weaver through pleasant
countryside to Preston Brook Tunnel. When we emerge from the tunnel we
are no longer on the T&M - but now on the Bridgewater canal (also well worth a cruise).
The
T&M was the first 'route canal' and I think it also has to
be my favourite canal.
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